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Please feel free to email questions to me at and I’ll post the ones that seem to come up most often, thanks.

Q. What are your fairings made of? I see different types of fiberglass being advertised.

A. They are "Light Resin-transfer Process" (LRTM) fiberglass*. Pre-cut fiberglass mat and reinforcement is placed into the mold, and the halves of the mold are closed and clamped shut. Catalyzed resin is pumped in at low pressure while the air is drawn out under vacuum. Full curing is done inside the molds, and the resulting parts have a smooth finish on both sides. *EXCEPT the inner half of the RK2/HST2 fairings-due to low production volume I still make those pieces in an open mold.

Q. Why don't you answer my emails?

A. I try to answer every one within 1 working day, even the "will it fit my Volkswagon?" ones! Please check your spam filters and try again with a phone number and mention you're not getting replies via email.

Q. Do the Road King and Heritage Softail version fairings come with brackets and mounting hardware or do I have to buy something else?

A. Nothing else to buy! The appropriate brackets are included, along with special bushings. (The fairings themselves are the same; the brackets are different depending on which bike it’s for.) The 4 OEM rubber windshield mounts that your current windshield snaps onto are replaced with 2-pc. stainless steel ones. You do need to move the spots forward to the front holes on Road Kings, that may cost a six-pack to your favorite mechanic to borrow his slotted 9/16” deep socket, but there’s no wiring involved.

Q. Does the fairing lock onto the bike? I’m worried about theft.

A. No, it doesn’t lock because it’s actually bolted tight to the bike when the 4 acorn nuts (socket heads on the Heritage) are tightened. It can’t shake that way, which would risk elongating the threaded holes in the fork tubes. When your forks are locked to the left while parked, it’s very hard to get at the left hand bolts anyway. I’ve always felt the locks are a bit of a gimmick; in 7+ years dealing with fairings I know of 3 complete bikes being stolen but no fairings by themselves. (IMHO-Best defense against $$$ loss is making sure your insurance includes your bike’s options, since more bikes fall over than are hit by thieves.)

Q. How come your fairings are so cheap? Are they junk?

A. Man-you come right to the point! (I like that) No they are not junk, and they’re not imports or anything like that. They are high quality LRTM process fiberglass, made in Wisconsin, and the prices are low for a few reasons;

1)No wholesale & dealer profits built in; you buy direct from me. If I have $100 into widget and need to make $50 on it I can sell it to you for $150+ S&H. OR….. I could sell it to a wholesaler for that same $150+. They’ll sell it to a dealer for $195+ and then to you for $245-$255 + S&H. No voodoo involved-everybody wants to get paid, and you’re the one paying. Of course any widgets I sold retail would have to go for $250+ also, to be fair to the dealers. I'd make at least an extra hundred bucks and you'd, um.......

2) I’m doing everything I can to shave the cost of building it and still give you a good, usable product that you will be proud to run on your bike. Some fairings come with chromed fasteners, I use stainless steel. I use less expensive windshields that I think are an excellent value (I use one on my own bike) and the stainless steel mounting brackets are polished to a “B” finish instead of a mirror-like one.

3) I don’t have a big advertising budget, and won’t need one if I can keep things rolling as a low-cost provider. Folks see how nice they really are, and generate word-of-mouth secondary sales.

Q. Can I save some money by getting one in primer instead of black gelcoat?

A. Actually that would cost more, as the primer would have to be applied OVER the gelcoat. The gelcoat isn’t an add-on finish; it’s sprayed into the open mold and allowed to cure until it only leaves a fingerprint image when touched. When the finished part is removed from the mold, the gelcoat has become the outer surface of the part and is an integral part of it. Your painter just has to round off where the outer edge was trimmed, and scuff or sand the smooth surface for paint prep. Some painters will prime it, others simply shoot it with a clear adhesion-promoter and then spray the base & clear coat directly onto the fairing.

Q. Why isn’t there a phone number on the Contact Page?

A. I’m a one-man band. If I’m suited up & in a mask doing something dusty or sticky, I can’t answer a phone anyway, so I try to do all initial contact via email so I can give it my full attention. I give all customers my cell number so they can call and/or leave a message if they need assistance. (except the morning I forgot to turn my phone on-sorry, Billy in NC)

Q. Why don't you offer fairings with radios already in them & ready to play?

A. There are already other companies doing that and you pay a very premium price, also it's impossible now to have the perfect radio for everyone's needs. CD performance used to be an absolute neccessity, now it's meaningless to most folks; they want a USB port for a "sound stick" or an input jack for a non-iPod branded MP3 device or a dedicated cord for an actual Apple one. Others want XM or SIRIUS, HD, and/or Bluetooth or Navigation options. I'm betting you are the best person to decide what you want on your own bike. If you aren't comfortable with installing the radio yourself you can always have an automotive audio shop put it in for hundreds less than the total cost of other pre-assembled fairings. Drop me an email and I'll be glad to work with you in making a good plan.

Q. Do the Valkyrie and VTX fairings come with brackets?

A. No,they don't need any because they clamp directly to the bare fork tubes between the triple trees. They're not quickly removeable like the ones for H-D.

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